Gerald Genta 設計的錶款 - 手錶
By Quintina
at 2023-01-18T02:09
at 2023-01-18T02:09
Table of Contents
今天和友人討論VC222,他說考量到近期的價格回歸和想買支Gerald Genta設計的錶款,想去排支Overseas
但是問題來了,我告知友人我記得222不是GG設計的款式阿?於是我們兩人進入了一段黑人問號的對話,我想說好像不是所有高溢價的一體式鍊帶款都是GG設計的吧,於是晚上花了一些時間做功課,以下是目前得到的一些資料
無庸置疑的最有名的AP Royal Oak即是GG幫在石英風暴下搖搖欲墜的AP設計的錶款 "我們需要一支高價手錶,不鏽鋼做的,但是比黃金款還貴,因為我們希望讓在華爾街報復的客戶展現自己過人的財力” ,於是Royal Oak誕生並且成功的拯救了機械錶產業,並且後來在1976年PP也請GG設計了Nautilus,於是鐘錶世界的兩尊至高門神誕生了
所以還有哪些手錶是GG設計的?
就我所知和找到的資料來看,目前市面相對經典的款式中以下這些款式都是GG的設計,排序以年代區分
1. UNIVERSAL GENEVE Polerouter
http://i.imgur.com/l954WLh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wSNrNmc.jpg
Polerouter 是GG在1950年代設計的錶款,並且是大師本人第一支設計的手錶,搭載世界上第一款微型自動陀機芯,不過因為沒人認識這個牌子,所以在古董錶市場中這還是一支買得起的錶款
2. OMEGA Constellation
http://i.imgur.com/lmjLMfx.jpg
一樣是在1950年代設計的錶款,當時歐委託GG修改星座系列的設計,但是不同於今天的款式,GG設計的星座系列造型和今天大相徑庭,被稱為C shape constellation
所以說一體式鍊帶的星座是誰設計的?
http://i.imgur.com/imAjA43.jpg
星座系列外型的演進和變體很複雜,但最早的一體式鍊帶星座是圖中的Manhattan Quartz Chronometer, 設計者為Carol Didisheim, 不可否認的,星座系列和GG是有淵源的,但是到了今天,似乎剩下名稱有連結了
3. IWC Ingenieur
http://i.imgur.com/iBZ97YL.jpg
其實我一直不懂為何21世紀初IWC將工程師系列變成一款缺乏特色的錶款,但是從這邊我們可以看到GG為IWC設計的工程師已經透露出他的招牌設計了,也希望IWC未來可以在這邊多下工夫
4. Bvlgari-Bvlgari/Octo
http://i.imgur.com/ijqX9z3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GLzy1ga.jpg
是的,這是一支型號為寶格麗的寶格麗手錶,GG參與過寶格麗的多款手錶,而其中也包含OCTO系列的設計,甚至他本人冠名的牌子後來也被寶格麗收購
所以哪些手錶不是GG設計的?
1. Vacheron Constantin 222/Overseas
http://i.imgur.com/iZXYzP0.jpg
222是由Jörg Hysek設計的,不過年代和AP/PP一樣是1970年代的款式
"It is a popular misconception that Genta designed the 222, simply because his other integrated bracelet models have become so well known," explains Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin's style and heritage director.
2. Girard Perregaux Laureato
http://i.imgur.com/SzNdszN.jpg
1975年由Adolfo Natalini設計
3. PIAGET POLO
http://i.imgur.com/WrOLJPI.jpg
1979年由Yves G. Piaget設計
真的不是每一隻昂貴的Integrated Bracelet 都要硬跟Gerald Genta 扯上關係耶...
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Sent from JPTT on my Google Pixel 5.
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