Rolex Submariner 黑水鬼 126610LN - 手錶
By Adele
at 2022-05-14T14:45
at 2022-05-14T14:45
Table of Contents
近代錶史上最簡單粗暴的一支名錶:黑水鬼!
https://i.imgur.com/gAKCj98.jpg
知名度誇張程度案例:我常在IG貼手錶照,
有天我姐姐念小二的小孩指著眾多他牌的錶照
問我姐說「那些錶是黑水鬼嗎?」
我姐納悶著她小孩是哪聽來的這個詞才跟我說
這件事,因為他們家沒人玩手錶。
https://i.imgur.com/6ZNdJ6a.jpg
也許就是超高知名度,讓許多人的入門名錶
首選就是黑水鬼了,也讓仿錶相對很多。但
我覺得勞的黑水鬼就像Lexus的IS系列或是
Mercedes C class一樣,有品牌光環、不難
養、妥善率不錯也好照顧,的確是支很稱職
的入門名錶,只不過近3年價格飆漲,入門
錶都不是入門價了,是比較可惜的地方。
https://i.imgur.com/0fW8vwm.jpg
回到這支錶的歷史,1950年代水下供應氧氣
技術已發展完備,潛水員開始能在水下作業
較長時間,一支能防水百米又能簡易計時一
小時左右的腕錶需求出現了。
https://i.imgur.com/cXu0dU2.jpg
勞力士看到了商機,在1953年推出初代黑水
鬼 6204,近70年了,外觀都是小改動,這就
是大家喜歡經典的原因:永不褪流行,畢竟大
多數人買一支錶來戴,可能都是要戴很多年甚
或一輩子戴著或收藏著的,這種情況下當然
不希望是會褪流行的東西。
https://i.imgur.com/CxB291J.jpg
而1959年的ref. 5512可以說是最接近現代
水鬼的樣貌,包括有了錶冠護肩、錶圈前
15分鐘刻度、賓士時針、防水深度印於面
盤中央、40mm錶徑,元素幾乎已完全一
樣了。
https://i.imgur.com/s2zIZIy.jpg
(Ref. 5512, Image from Hodinkee)
一般潛水錶的外圈設計是用於簡易計時的,
即是將外圈刻度跟分針搭配著看,有兩種
用法:
1. 計時:只要把外圈刻度零轉到分針指的位
置對準即開始計時,隨著分針的順時針移動
就能看外圈知道已經過了幾分鐘了。
https://i.imgur.com/i4R8jSB.jpg
2. 倒數計時:在進行活動前預先計算活動
所需要的時間,例如活動時間是30分鐘目
前時間是3:15,將外圈的菱形標記轉到時標
刻度的3:45即可。
https://i.imgur.com/Wq78Pb5.jpg
可以發現這樣的計時方式在讀值時很難精
確到秒,所以稱為簡易計時。但相對於一般
的計時錶,其實更適合水下作業,因為一般
計時內圈顯示太小了,水下看不太到,計時
按鍵也不好做防水。
https://i.imgur.com/W8cem7F.jpg
另外,外圈只能單向旋轉的原因,當然也跟
潛水有關了,絕對不能順時針方向轉,否則
萬一水下誤觸時順時針轉到,會誤以為自己
在水下的時間比實際時間短,最後反而會造
成缺氧危險。(GMT就是雙向可轉)
https://i.imgur.com/wQtcoUf.jpg
現代潛水腕錶之父 ,Mr. Fiechter在1952
年擔任Blancpain CEO時,發表了依照他潛水
經驗而原創設計的五十噚,早於黑水鬼約一
年,且Mr. Fiechter於1952年就制定好了當
時潛水錶標準。Blancpain的品牌本來就遠
高於勞力士許多,所以說黑水鬼某種程度上
有受到五十噚的影響,我想是必然的。
上手照
https://i.imgur.com/j7i2iCo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gVnl7F6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AYe7jOA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TDgFHfZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OT2RexI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MNpvZpT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JQHstd7.jpg
勞力士錶冠logo下的符號都有不同意義
三個點:三段防水設計
兩個點:k金材質
一個點:鉑金材質
一條線:雙重防水
https://i.imgur.com/J2LGnKK.jpg
勞潛水錶的Glidelock實用方便且不失質感
https://i.imgur.com/EotKOTn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KXdlQis.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JyIFMdG.jpg
與GMT功能的Batman來個兄弟合照
https://i.imgur.com/zxj4aoA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Xy5s9tn.jpg
錶帶設計略有不同,GMT似乎想呼應雙色圈
的對比,在錶鍊的中間是高亮的設計,水鬼
則是全髮絲紋。
https://i.imgur.com/oVz8Sau.jpg
心得:
1. 勞潛水錶的Glidelock 錶節快調機構真的
超好用又方便,每2mm為單位最多能延
長到2cm,隱藏式設計美觀又實用。
2. 單向旋轉外圈逆時針轉的時候的嗑嗑聲
也蠻悅耳有質感的,而且非常好施力轉動,
的確沒話說。
3. 錶徑放到41mm、厚12.3mm比例以運動錶
來說很合適,視覺上更帥氣ㄧ些些,黑配銀也
是百看不膩。紮實的防水300米,只要龍頭有
鎖,基本上洗手、游泳都不用脫錶的。
4. 新的機芯3235將動力儲存從50小時增
加到70小時算是蠻加分的,但3235機芯設
計對坊間師傅的維修保養較不友善,過於綁
死給原廠對我是個小缺點。
5. 這支入門帥錶,蠻適合對錶還沒太多研究
但有閒錢入手的朋友,不過之前新品這支
炒破50萬實在扯了點,勞目前價格仍處於
回檔修正中,但我認為有好機會仍是可以
考慮入(ㄔㄠ)手(ㄉㄧˇ),因為依過去
勞力士原廠以產量或其他方式控制市場行情
厲害的程度,我認為修正會有,要崩盤老實
講機會應不大。
https://i.imgur.com/NOcl6vy.jpg
最後,蠻驚訝這支錶版上幾乎沒人開箱,可
能這支錶真的太通俗了吧,大家覺得就沒什
麼好介紹的了。我本來也是這樣想,但開箱
文功課做完,還是發現許多本來不知道的
小知識。所以細細品嚐一下,這種有70年
歷史的錶款還是有很多值得玩味的地方,這
都還沒提老錶單紅、雙紅、膏藥面等等的,
我想黑水鬼的魅力還是非常吸引人的。
https://i.imgur.com/HHL3xEU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0MfshRL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2w06MOi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/x0oYNl4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1jyiGQd.jpg
週末愉快!
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