AP皇家橡樹Royal Oak 15500st - audemars piguet
![Heather avatar](/img/girl.jpg)
By Heather
at 2022-04-22T14:32
at 2022-04-22T14:32
Table of Contents
從今天起AP就是我大哥了! XD
https://i.imgur.com/59WG1fW.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/59WG1fWl.jpg?e=1651150172&s=EduJJGk3Ff3aVU3AfUJocg)
密集玩錶半年多來,一直苦無良機入手AP的皇家橡樹Royal Oak(下稱RO),一方面二手RO
非常少,二方面RO目前離譜超訂的情況下,在專賣店也不是隨便能拿到。但身為一個Luxu
ry Steel Sports Watch的小小粉絲,心心念念收藏一支RO,不為別的,就衝著RO是創造
奢華精鋼運動錶歷史的始祖,我知道我此生是必須收藏一支RO的!
https://i.imgur.com/1yyWCyq.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/1yyWCyql.jpg?e=1651155701&s=PSk08_hxBF1jHHHF9gavgA)
知道歸知道,但是2021年RO全系列大爆發,幾乎每支身價都翻2倍以上,目前二手市場一
支15202藍面的身價,大概幾乎要拿我開箱過的所有錶來換(JLC萬年曆+50噚+PP 鉑金年
曆+Batman+雄鷹+3861+GP桂冠+Santos+VC初代overseas )
這都還先不提50週年的16202目前身價直接再乘2… 這麼多好錶換一支大三針鋼錶,嗯,
根本神經病!
https://i.imgur.com/ntTfpL6.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/ntTfpL6l.jpg?e=1651143598&s=kNobrc3_ACm9f1c3jXvH3g)
個人玩錶原則,先求不傷身,再講求收藏性。
做完許多功課後,在不要傷身的折衷之下,選擇了目前相對易於入手的15500st 41mm白面
大三針。
https://i.imgur.com/Plnoj2j.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/Plnoj2jl.jpg?e=1651130615&s=pVWZcbQBOBlO21TBtg3MzQ)
有關於RO讓人津津樂道的歷史,想必多數人都已聽過,甚麼躲在大橡樹裡得救啦、皇家橡
樹號啦、一夜完成RO草稿啦、上市初期銷售平平到CEO都不想寫在AP年報裡啦,有興趣自
行google這裡就不贅述了。既然我挑了自己喜歡的銀白面(Silver-tone),就來稍微用銀
白面的角度來切入RO歷史。
https://i.imgur.com/dEKfL5y.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/dEKfL5yl.jpg?e=1651123796&s=cDtrTUt0pt_Vb_DxESm1WA)
1970年出生、1972年亮相的RO,一直到1976年的四年間只有單一錶款5402。RO首次出現銀
白面是1977年推出的Royal Oak III(ref. 4100)為35mm錶徑的RO,當時是為了主打一些
反應39mm太大的市場(美國、亞洲與義大利)。
同時4100也是首次將秒針加上,並首次將AP LOGO移到12點鐘位置,可說是大三針RO的始
祖(Jumbo沒有秒針)。而銀白面第一次出現在Jumpo則是2000年首發的15202。
https://i.imgur.com/6SX8See.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/6SX8Seel.jpg?e=1651150570&s=6eub8Koo3dnrQvdxUjxBHw)
熟悉RO的人應該已可以看出,1980年代後的RO的款式操作大致分為兩類:
1. 39mm的兩針RO(統稱Jumbo)
2. 各種尺吋的三針RO (不會稱為Jumbo)
https://i.imgur.com/ufVFujZ.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/ufVFujZl.jpg?e=1651169250&s=sS0naosWR0mbf4Hif-nKVw)
以下是我小小整理的重要錶款年份表,讓大家可以快速對歷年來2與3針的RO有個瞭解。
1972 :5402 (RO Jumbo始祖)
1976 :8638 ( RO II, 女錶, 29mm)
1977 :4100(RO III, 三針始祖, 35mm)
~1980: 14790 (三針, 長青獨特36mm RO)
~1987 : 5402停產
1992 :14802 (Jumbo限量1000支復活)
1996 :15002 (Jumbo全面復活)
2000 :15202 (Jumbo,首次機芯透背)
2005 :15300 (三針, 獨特Jumbo size的三針)
2012 :15400 (三針首款 41mm RO)
…………..15450 (三針首款 37mm RO)
…………..15202 extra-thin(Jumbo 40週年款, 致敬5402)
2019 : 15500 (三針, 取代15400換上新式4302機芯)
2022 : 16202 (Jumbo 50週年款)
……………15550 (三針, 37mm 50週年款)
https://i.imgur.com/ouNuC92.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/ouNuC92l.jpg?e=1651142225&s=-wxvfJXGwcONYtwXd_HVDw)
今日主角15500在2019年時推出而取代了15400,主要有幾個大的更動:
1. 將位於6點鐘方向的"AUTOMATIC"字樣移除
2. 將位於3點鐘的日期窗推到面盤邊緣
3. 秒分標線在獨立的面盤外圈(不在格紋上)
4. 機芯以新型4302機芯取代用了20年的3120機芯,算是少見的大升級(60H -> 70H、KiF
避震 -> Incabloc、直徑26.6mm -> 32mm、振頻3Hz -> 4Hz)
https://i.imgur.com/n1BGWRB.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/n1BGWRBl.jpg?e=1651176863&s=tXKhk5r4PWQhyN0bIsxpJA)
這樣的改動之下,個人覺得面盤更乾淨,而相稱的新機芯大小也讓日期窗的位置能像Jumb
o一樣推到邊緣,背蓋透背加薄邊框配上裸空的自動盤,也跟Jumbo的透背感非常類似。
https://i.imgur.com/mo2CK1v.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/mo2CK1vl.jpg?e=1651162703&s=SkcvJOTmoAlIVRy44Kw9Ag)
而今年AP最夯的話題就是RO 50周年,版上也已有版友不吝分享拿到50周年款的過程,這
篇就順便來談談50周年款。
目前50周年RO已推出了
39mm Jumbo(16202)
41mm計時(26240)
37mm(15550/15551)三針。
https://i.imgur.com/67zVhVQ.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/67zVhVQl.jpg?e=1651122384&s=5_o8QFsXiEVmhUQ6oC8-6w)
50周年最大的特色就是專屬的50周年樣式自動盤,且僅限2022生產的50周年錶才有,2023
就會回復一般AP樣式的自動盤。這創造了讓人擔心在2022年底前會來不及排到50周年款而
錯失的現象,使得搶錶的狀況更甚以往,畢竟特殊造型的自動盤就只有今年才有阿!(限
量殘酷,限時更殘酷!好樣的AP Marketing!)
https://i.imgur.com/1fMcnjt.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/1fMcnjtl.jpg?e=1651163041&s=No8t3V_bFJC58UR4FrCQ3Q)
目前普遍預期15500也將停產,近期即將推出50周年款的41mm三針RO(國外猜代號是15510
,就姑且用這代號吧)。官網其實已經偷偷把15510的面盤照偷放在50周年紀念的網站了,
最大的改動就跟目前推出的50周年款都一樣,移除了『AP』LOGO,然後加長時標與指針,
並將『Audemars Piguet』字樣由印刷改成立體。
15510st (Image from AP RO 50th官網)
https://i.imgur.com/HQLCcpw.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/HQLCcpwl.jpg?e=1651117294&s=9UgAxLi76EK0XF4N1QNJ8Q)
15500st
https://i.imgur.com/GfGHV93.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/GfGHV93l.jpg?e=1651150852&s=9UHNUIayziL5MzKICFR8Kg)
可以看出新款RO中,將經典的AP LOGO獨留給最經典的16202(Jumbo)了,這樣的改動其實
對於喜愛經典AP LOGO的人來說是個壞消息,畢竟從始祖5402開始的50年來AP LOGO在各
錶款RO都是存在的,早已是RO經典元素之一。而在16202非常難入手的情況下,喜歡AP LO
GO的人只能趕緊把握最後停產前的15500了!這也是我選擇15500的主因。
好了,上照
光是手工打磨鍊帶就約需花費10個小時
https://i.imgur.com/rFq1l2u.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/rFq1l2ul.jpg?e=1651149751&s=rqla1hJUcJsjcbiVha30Aw)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/awbskwNl.jpg?e=1651115653&s=s0nTtvQ-a-iHNDzsyNV7DQ)
RO招牌的金屬Tapisserie面盤,AP是少數還保有機刻雕花工藝的錶廠。交錶當天某前輩告
訴我,白面最能顯現Tapisserie面盤的美,非常認同!
https://i.imgur.com/6SvLIK2.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/6SvLIK2l.jpg?e=1651169261&s=sjV6TXn1lAnybmXwyxPadA)
看似無奇的格紋面盤,放大之後非常美麗,方格紋上可見更細微的同心圓刻紋。
https://i.imgur.com/C96BowG.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/C96BowGl.jpg?e=1651169899&s=dzFI5mB41ECSzV6P1NOYiA)
AP有小、大、超大三種尺寸的Tapisserie面盤(Petite/T21、Grande、Mega)
這支是Grande。
https://i.imgur.com/JiKpV0X.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/JiKpV0Xl.jpg?e=1651144536&s=u8H3vXBcDWyElM_hstjtQw)
鍊帶閃閃發亮的秘密在於小連結帶的兩端拋光
https://i.imgur.com/ShHquFr.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/ShHquFrl.jpg?e=1651153427&s=NoB2IrTU-qvlqzf1ULMK0w)
錶殼的稜角超級漂亮!
四個稜角在上框、中殼、下蓋這三塊之間都要做到完美的align才行。
https://i.imgur.com/Ng9XRMS.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/Ng9XRMSl.jpg?e=1651147216&s=BGuuwXzRSJt8_CpqIgUnUQ)
歷代RO的秒分標都是直接打在格紋上,15500的面盤有很獨特的秒分標線外圈,多了層次
感,
新款預計又將取消這種設計。
https://i.imgur.com/lJSdTNj.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/lJSdTNjl.jpg?e=1651129527&s=oBKb7RL7-oivhLR7Cnm_5g)
上手照
https://i.imgur.com/uWTeBda.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/uWTeBdal.jpg?e=1651173852&s=IetSS3t9GpbCPri9KoVPRg)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/GwjICI6l.jpg?e=1651114891&s=LAHN0DcNATAXhIAJmW3Hvg)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/120qyZ6l.jpg?e=1651134667&s=J6EcsR9Qtgj2xwV3tWa5tA)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/KxDdPlTl.jpg?e=1651167909&s=WJQV-bnZcLCw6kFNVcE-Yw)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/TTzjzU1l.jpg?e=1651142536&s=FPPZcVH001tXZK-92Mpwlg)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/3GslWuAl.jpg?e=1651147024&s=01hg1BXg9kc_9P2KxOPRzA)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/inpnP47l.jpg?e=1651133814&s=bUDeWt-X-BU7Sja0yPxK3g)
珐碼微調的無卡度的擺輪、具停秒功能
https://i.imgur.com/MEv4J3S.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/MEv4J3Sl.jpg?e=1651166000&s=a2R1AqMQw9BoG7z0zTY6BA)
這顆4302機芯打磨真的非常美,畢竟4302也用在貴金屬文錶Code 11.59,打磨絕不馬虎。
https://i.imgur.com/l7NV2G2.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/l7NV2G2l.jpg?e=1651140360&s=ia94jxProffzoSU6VRfLYw)
少見使用玫瑰金22k自動盤,比起一般金色會更讓機芯顏值出眾!
https://i.imgur.com/UIFz9Ka.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/UIFz9Kal.jpg?e=1651116009&s=WG2FwWATuApfKpndNgaRSQ)
4/23實測了機芯秒差,很驚喜的穩定+0 SPD,準到爆!AP出廠前應該是有好好校正。
https://i.imgur.com/JK2elTq.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/JK2elTql.jpg?e=1651132309&s=cWHZkG7VO5dOgjSqGmXXhA)
夜光
https://i.imgur.com/kAbTodu.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/kAbTodul.jpg?e=1651142104&s=claNEVlpCw_LFKa3mJjZCg)
心得:
1. RO殼形有放大的效果,41mm的RO,我覺得實際上算42.5mm的錶,已算我17cm手腕能戴
的極限了,幸好運動錶oversized一些是沒太大問題的。厚度10.4mm也蠻恰到好處的。
2. RO的不鏽鋼鍊帶除了經典,打磨更是一絕,質感與亮眼度說是錶壇中數一數二,當之
無愧!
3. 白面就是亮眼!也更能凸顯Tapisserie面盤的美,當然最經典的顏色還是雲夜藍50!
4. 4302新機芯打磨超乎預期的漂亮,明顯優於Offshore配的機芯的打磨,個人覺得也直
逼目前手上的PP 5146P。合適的機芯大小配上41mm的殼,薄邊框配上裸空的自動盤,這樣
的透背真的很美,也與Jumbo的透背感很類似,對機芯控的我來說,大大加分。
5. 終於入手心目中最經典的錶,非常喜悅!我發現自己真的很喜歡Integrated Bracelet
的錶,再來要捏爆衝看看50週年錶!XD
Integrated Bracelet (整合式鏈帶)奢華運動錶全員出動!(招喚Ingenieur、Oversea
s Chrono、RO、Laureato 、雄鷹)
https://i.imgur.com/SEd5vFT.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/SEd5vFTl.jpg?e=1651175297&s=JF9hBjdXGyM65gMhrvtzOg)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/bidbJsLl.jpg?e=1651151264&s=q6ULWYzmpqoRUFpcESeiJA)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/wTVI3gcl.jpg?e=1651114117&s=_uTBMZfnxrp-HezR776WgA)
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/T2XKaL5l.jpg?e=1651141445&s=bWuB_heNg84hKWiU71cKwg)
最後非常感謝版友F大的引薦下,讓入手的過程順利許多,也非常感謝A13的Nadia姐與Bri
an哥大力幫忙,讓我在今年達成入手RO的目標!
https://i.imgur.com/spNIDG0.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/spNIDG0l.jpg?e=1651172325&s=cj-K-5lGUBwyiUER65PKvw)
https://i.imgur.com/MCJkDXu.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/MCJkDXul.jpg?e=1651143774&s=LEqt0vwzOIwdXM4I51IDew)
https://i.imgur.com/sVTABH2.jpg
![](https://cache.ptt.cc/c/https/i.imgur.com/sVTABH2l.jpg?e=1651115690&s=oKqm_ZG2hEq7b8X5_eQMDQ)
心得文在錶版一般很難被推爆,好啦!這篇我真的花了不少時間寫+拍,能推爆同場加映
分享個人與SA溝通的一些小技巧並且看看能不能再衝支50週年來開箱!
--
Tags:
audemars piguet
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